Hafiz might not have been able to cross the road because he may have been drunk much of the time. Writing about a hundred years after the better known Persian poet, Rumi, Hafiz ( 1320-1389), also known as Shams, born in the Persian city of Shiraz, is said to have produced over 5000 poems in his lifetime of which only about 500 survive. Many of his poems, appear to be about wine, though historically, these references are taken to be metaphors for God and god's love. In the introduction to his book, "Drunk On The Wine of The Beloved," Thomas Rain Crowe describes allusions to the Winebringer, Winemaker, and Wineseller as metaphors for God. So did all you distributors, grapegrowers, winemakers, and retailers know that you have been compared to God by a great poet? In this metaphorical view, wine is love, the wineglass, the heart, and the Beloved, God. The Beloved can be represented by the rose, the sun, the falcon, the friend, the painter, the architect, the gardener. Much of the action in these poems takes place in the Winehouse or Wine Seller's Street. Raines says this is not a simple tavern or bar, a wine bar perhaps, or more likely something like a cafe in Latin America where poetry is recited along with music and other performance art to the accompaniment of good conversation, coffee, wine and who knows what other substances. According to my friend Walter Andrews, in his book, "The Beloved," around the reign of the great Ottoman Sultan Suleiman, poets reached the pinnacle of influence at the Ottoman court. Even though the Sultan had absolute power of life and death, it appears there was a culture of cafe life in which poets were for the most part allowed the latitude of a King's fool. Andrews also says that more often than not, The Beloved was not only metaphorically God, but also another man with "rosebud" lips.
Sufis, especially poets, seem to have been striving to achieve the highest high, spiritually and otherwise. To this order, they apparently whirled and spun like dervishes, smoked hash, had sex, and drank lots of wine. So is wine a metaphor? Of course, it is. After all, isn't metaphor the essence of poetry? Doesn't poetry pack so many meanings into a few words? So is wine only a metaphor? I don't think so. These poets were wild men and mystics. Ralph Waldo Emerson said of Hafiz, "He fears nothing. He sees too far..." Goethe said, " In his poetry Hafiz has inscribed undeniable truth indelibly...." As with everything, nothing is what it appears to be, so it is my guess that Hafiz drank like a fish, made love to both sexes, did drugs and thought and lived outside the box. A veritable genius who could see and speak the truth. So wine is love and truth.
In vino veritas!
Well this will almost wrap it up for Taste Washington in Phoenix since I seem to have skipped more wineries than I thought. "So many wines, so little time." Look for one last post - Best of Taste Washington Phoenix.
O-S Winery - Part of the original gang of four in the SSAW, Bill Owen makes outstanding wine.
Usually not a bad one in the bunch.
Precept Brands - A marketing group. Pine & Post Chardonnay and Merlot are outstanding values in the same category with Columbia Crest Two Vines and Red Diamond.
Reininger - Since Reininger moved into their new digs right on the way into Walla Walla from the west, the wines have not been quite as exciting as Chuck's earlier efforts. Nevertheless, the Helix wines represent good value, and many of regular bottling are still delicious.
Ryan Patrick - The Rock Island Red is always a good value as is the Naked Chardonnay.
Saint Laurent - Well made wines at reasonable prices. I have a special affinity for Saint Laurent as that is my son-in-law's name.
Seven Hills - I now have enough data to include Seven Hills in the Unofficial Classification of Washington State Wineries - it will be a third growth. The Pinot Gris was pure, fresh and fruity. The Riesling at 1.5% residual sugar "dry" enough in mouthfeel. My fave was the 2006 Walla Walla Merlot.
Sheridan Vineyard - Recently, Scott Greer somehow managed to create one of best vineyards in Washington. The L'Orage (french for "perfect storm") and Syrah are excellent, if a little on the jammy side.
Sleight of Hand - Trey Busch is an outstanding winemaker. He works his magic with virtually every wine he makes. Check out the "Magician" (Gewurz) and the "Spellbinder" (Red Blend).
Sparkman Cellars - Chris Sparkman has lots of experience in the hospitality industry. He got his start in winemaking with his buddy at Mark Ryan. I somehow think of these two plus Chris Gorman as a trio of pirates, aye! The 2007 "Lumiere" Chard and 2006 "Wilderness" were outstanding.
Spring Valley Vineyard - Who can resist Uriah and Frederick made by French winemaker Serge Laville.
Syncline - Winemaker, James Mantone may be the best educated winemaker in the world. Knowledgeable about microbiology, geology, and many other sciences, he bring a philosophical perspective to his biodynamique approach to grape growing and winemaking, but most importantly, his wines are outstandingly good. His Syrah is my favorite. Sommelier Christophe Huser, of Hacienda del Sol, also loved this wine. The Subduction Red, a Rhone-style blend is also an outstanding red at a reasonable price.
Somehow missed Tagaris, Tamarack, and Townshend.
Vin Du Lac Winery - Winemaker Larry Lehmbecker makes fresh wines that see no wood. Virtually all of his wines are quite good. The Ice wine is a special effort. Larry took away many awards from the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition this year.
Missed Waters Winery, Woodhouse Cellars and Woodward Canyon. Woodward Canyon wines are always interesting and sometimes outstanding.
Wines of Substance - Waters winemaker, Jamie Brown, takes a negociant approach using overages from other wineries and vineyards. Thus, he produces a virtual Table of Wine Elements such as CS, SY, CF, ME, CH, RE etc. A very clever scheme allowing the opportunity to taste different varietals made by the same winemaker - a great chance to check out the varietal character of each grape. BTW, once open, these wines keep a long time (five days?) without even being gassed making then great glass pours for restaurants.
Who was Hafiz and why did he write about wine?
The chicken crossed the road to avoid the farmer who wanted to make that totally ancient retro dish, "Coq Au Vin. " Coq au Vin is a great way to use almost a whole bottle of wine that's not quite right. If there is no such wine, Charles Shaw, aka Two Buck Chuck will do. Whatever happened to all those great "cooking with wine" dishes such as Sole au Chambertin, Civet de Lievre ( does the Hare have to cross the road, too?) - are they just gathering dust in old copies of Julia Child? Are there any new "cooking with wine" recipes? An infusion of chicken and red wine pate coiled around a vertical Vietnamese shrimp and sugar cane stick on a base of ginger and pickled cucumber jello, for example? Anyway, chickens are smarter than you might think!
Why did the chicken cross the road? Why do you think? My answer next Tuesday.
Answer: The farmer went to the winery to make wine! A visit to a typical winery in France makes this obvious. During a visit to Chateau Prieure Lichine in the 1980s, I was first greeted in the courtyard by hens and roosters running about. There was no obvious Chateau or tasting room, just a group of outbuildings clustered around the courtyard with all kinds of farm equipment scattered about. Talking with winemaker, Frank Roth, confirms this. Frank works for orchidist, Mike Tagaris, one of the biggest exporter of Fuji Apples to Korea. All grapegrowers are farmers, and any winery that has estate grown grapes is by definition a farm, unless it is a factory detached from the vineyards. Even the fanciest Chateau in France, while showing a great facade, behind it all, is a farm. It is unfortunate, that some wineries now resemble a retail boutique in a mall rather than a farm. It is even more unfortunate, that so many wines are homogenized in their flavors. The flavor has been removed from so many foods such as pork and eggs, and more and more so from wine. We should be thankful to the devoted farmers who bring us grapes with character and wines with character. Of course, especially in Washington, there are farmers who only grow grapes, and winemakers who only make wine.
Here's another dozen wineries to consider:
Isenhower - Winemaker Brett Isenhower is an artist. My favorite is the 2006 Red Paintbrush.*
J. Bookwalter - somehow missed this one.
K- Vintners - Charles Smith is a talented winemaker and marketeer. Great names like Eve Chardonnay, the Velvet Devil Merlot, and Boom Boom Syrah.
Kestrel - You don't have to be a bird to appreciate these. Usually excellent wines, though quality varies somewhat. Lady in Red is available all over the place, but isn't quite as good as the earlier editions.
Kiona - Venerable Red Mountain winery. Winemaker Scott Williams makes a huge variety of wines of good quality.
L'Ecole No. 41 - Marty Clubb usually makes excellent wines. Semillon is a specialty and a special treat.
Lone Canary - Good wines at good prices.*
Long Shadows - Alan Shoup casts a very long shadow around the globe. Outstanding wines for the most part. Pedestal, Pirouette and Sequel are my favorites.
I must have missed a whole section - Maryhill, Mercer Estates, Milbrandt, Morrison Lane.
Nicolas Cole - Amazing wines at amazing prices. My favorite, once again, is the least expensive, but absolutely delicious Graeagle.*
Northstar - Started out with a bang, but seems to have lost some of it's luster. Still, good stuff.
Northwest Cellars - The fun thing about Rebert Delf's wines? You can get your own customized label. My fave is the Merlot.*
Note Bene - Note well, Note Bene! Tim Narby, another Boeing Wine Club graduate, makes delicious, interesting wines with hard to pronounce names. My favorite right now is the 2005 Abbinare.*
Novelty Hill - As I wrote last year, I've never had a bad wine from Novelty Hill. Mike Januik is an outstanding winemaker, and Novelty Hill wines are priced right.
Here are another dozen wineries to contemplate:
Efeste - Sounds Greek to me, like efcharisto! But thanks to Big Papa I found out that it is just an acronym for the owners names, nevertheless, Big Papa is Greek. The wines are well made all-Ameican wines, though the Riesling did have a wonderful smell of a pine forest reminding me of Retsina.
Elegante Cellars - Winemaker Doug Simmons is by far the happiest winemaker I've ever met. He loves his second career as a winemaker and is so grateful to be able to work with wine. What a refreshing attitude! He made a 2006 Walla Walla Cab and a 2006 Walla Walla Merlot. I preferred the Merlot.
Five Stars - Dave Huse is a big friendly man and his wine's are big friendly wines. I prefer the Cabernet Sauvignon. although Dave raved about his award winning Sangiovese.*
Gifford Hirlinger - Like so many family wineries, GH started out growing grapes. Happily, Winemaker Mike Berghan loves making wine. I prefer the 2005 Walla Walla Merlot.
Gilbert Cellars - Gilbert Cellars is a relatively new winery that has been getting accolades for it's wines lately. I preferred the Unoaked Chardonnay.
Gordon Bros. - It was a pleasure to meet Jeff's daughter, Katie Nelson who is the Marketing Director for the winery. Gordon Bros are always well-made wines with reasonable prices across the board. I aways like the Merlot and the Chardonanny. This year I also tasted the 2006 Kamiak Cellar Select Red Wine which is a outstanding Cab-based red at the very reasonable price of about $14. The Kamiak Cellar Select White is an interesting blend of Chard and SB with a 5% hint of Riesling to smooth things out. Not to my taste, but a very appealing wine nevertheless, especially at the very appealing price of about $11.
Grape Group - Grape Group is not a Winery, but, rather, a marketing group under the umbrella of Precept Brands. This is a three-fer: Rainier Ridge, Willow Crest, and Apex II. Willow Crest is the standout, as Dave Minick is an outstanding winemaker, another one to add to the "Best winemakers."
Guardian Cellars - A new winery from the Woodinville incubator, again under the aegis of Mark Ryan. The 2006 Chalk Line is an excellent blend of 50% CS, 22% Malbec, 17% Syrah, 11% Merlot. The 2006 Gun Metal is a more traditional blend of 46% CS, 43% CF, 1% M. A winery to watch!
Hestia Cellars - I like to think that I discovered Shawn Jones, but then, maybe Shawn discovered me. In any event, I was one of the first wine writers to recognize the quality of what Shawn was doing. Big amazing wines from a small winery. The Syrah is my favorite.*
Hedges - A pioneer on Red Mtn. Very good wines, but not usually spectacular. The "CMS" is widely distributed and a good value,. The Three Vineyards is also widely available and quite good.
Hogue - Headline: Asparagus growers make wine. Mike and Gary Hogue pioneered Washington State wines. The winery has passed through several corporate hands, but the quality of the wine is consistently good. All three product lines, regular, Genesis, and Reserve are good, but, as is so often the case with me, I prefer the simplicity of the regular line which is widely available in supermarkets and a good value, especially on sale.
Hyatt Vineyards - Well, you'll never get this at the Hilton, but so what. The wines are good values at about $10/bottle. The 06 Chard is light and easy. The Riesling is relatively sweet, but appealing.*
That's it! More than a baker's dozen if you unbundle the Grape Group. Tune in for three more dozen vignettes.
Why did the farmer go to the winery? What do you think? Tune in next Monday for my answer.
Yes, beer! After laboring all day around tanks and barrels smelling of wine, lifting lugs of grapes, punching down must, sloshing fermenting grape juice around, washing down the winery and equipment, does a winemaker, cellarmaster, cellar rat want to smell more wine? No, of course not, he or she wants something refreshing to relax with and cool off with - beer. Of course, winemakers do drink wine, usually at dinner or with a wine tasting group of winemakers and other wine types. Interestingly, though, it seems winemakers usually drink their own wine or the wine of their neighbors, friends and competitors. Very few are knowledgeable about the wines of the world, with two exceptions. I once asked Kent Callaghan why his wines were head and shoulders above the quality of his fellow Arizona winemakers. His answer - he drinks and tastes wine from all over the world. It was truly a pleasure to talk wine with Kent. Ditto, James Mantone! He brings a depth of knowledge to winemaking that is truly awesome. He knows world wines, chemistry, microbiology, biodynamic farming, but most importantly he has a philosophical bent and has really thought about life and how he wants live it. He makes wines that reflect this and are truly a gift in the sense described by Lewis Hyde in his books such as Trickster Makes This World. Beer is good, wine is better, except on a really hot day after work.
Here's the second dozen wines from Taste Washington. Again, Wanderlust wines have an asterisk.
Caderetta - French winemaker, Virginie Bourgue opened her own winery, after working with Annette Bergevin and Amber Lane at Bergevin Lane. I was really curious to taste her wines, but somehow this never materialized.
Chateau Ste Michelle is the Godzilla of the Washington wine world, responsible for approximately half the cases produced in the state. Most wines are adequate with a few standouts.
Columbia Crest - Owned by Ste Michelle, the winemaking approach seem to be quite different. Even though they produce around a million cases in a factory-like building there is careful attention to boutique techniques such as punch downs. At all three levels they produce excellent wines. The "Two Vines" series seem to be basically unoaked. The Merlot and Chardonnay can be had at virtually any gas station in Washington. Frequently on sale at about $7, these are two of the world's all time bargains. The Grand Estates line has seen some oak and is about 50% higher. Supposedly, good food wines I have never been as fond of them as the Two Vines. My neighbor, Chao, was just getting into wine when he discovered the Syrah Reserve. This is a knockout wine for the $30 price. A wealthy acquaintance, drank the Merlot Reserve as her everyday wine. I would do the same if I could afford it. I wonder if she is still doing it or whether she has downshifted to the Grand Estates,
Columbia Winery - Even though I have known some of the founders, frankly, with the exception of some of David Lake's wines , I've rarely had a Columbia Winery wine that I really liked.
Cote Bonneville - Sorry, I missed this one.
Cougar Crest - Deborah Hansen is an outstanding winemaker. Of, the wines tasted, I was especially fond of the whistle clean, refreshing Viognier.*
DeLille - It is hard not to like DeLille wines, that includes the Grand Cru and the Doyenne line, too. "D2" is frequently my favorite as was the case once again withe 2006 vintage. I usualy like the Doyenne "Aix" and Syrah. My favorite white is the Doyenne Rousanne, though these vintages were not quite as wonderful as some in the past. The Grand Cru has the potential to become a Washington State "cult" wine. Kind of like a somewhat tannic Chateau Latour that needs to age.
DiStefano Winery - All quite good, no particular favorite.*
Domaine Poulin - My favorite from winemaker Alexis Poulin was the 2007 Deux, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.
Donedei - Winemaker, Carolyn Lakewold has an interesting story which we wil have to reserve for another time. Her wines are expensive but with production of only about 800 cases, there is barely enough supply to match the demand. The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon tasted like a raspberry, coffee, chocolate truffle in a glass.*
Dunham - Winemaker, Dan Wampler has taken over most of the winemaking from Eric Dunham. The wines are beautiful and this year the 2006 Trutina was especially good.*
Dusted Valley - Ever since Chad started making wine in his garage several years ago, his wines have been big bold and charming. The Dusted Valley Stained Tooth Syrah is a little monster that stains your teeth. The Viognier is a cool refresher with good body. All I wrote for the Boomtown Cab was "WOW. The Boomtown Pinot Gris had a great nose and lots of character.
There's another dozen. Tune in next week...
Yes, Washington came to Arizona. It appeared that the event for buyers in the trade was dominated by Wanderlust Trading. Why? Because Wanderlust doubled the number of Washington State wineries available in Arizona. What a fabulous event for people in the "trade". An opportunity for retailers and restauranteurs to taste the fabulous wines of Washington State. With about 75 wineries presenting over three hundred wines, this was a royal opportunity for wineries to present to their wines to the retail trade. But here's the problem: so many small businesses are freaked out by the current financial melt down that they can't bring themselves to take advantage of this exceptional opportunity to present something new, to save themselves and offer wondrous wines to the consumer who is open to incredible wines at incredible prices from Washington State. So here's the deal! No one who drinks wine has cut back on their c0nsumption. Everybody from millionaires to us peasants has cut back on what they pay for a bottle of wine. If you were drinking $200 bottles, you've cut back to $100 or less. If you were drinking $60s, your down below 30. Fifteen's are drinking $5 to $10. If you were drinking two buck chuck, hopefully you can afford jug wine. Everybody has cut their pricepoint by 50% or more. Washington State wines are incredible on their own, but in this economy, they are even more attractive as alternatives to California and France. At about half the price of their overseas brethren and their neighbors to the south, they represent the perfect pricepoint in the most severe recession since the great depression. So here are my comments on Washington State wines at Taste Washington Phoenix in alphabetical order. Wineries marked by an asterisk are represented by Wanderlust Trading Company.
Abeja - Winemaker John Abbott ( should definitely be on the great winemaker list) presented his 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon which tasted like a light airy chocolate souffle in a bottle. His Chardonnay is outstanding with lots of minerality in an almost European style.*
Airfield Estates - An up and comer we first tasted at Debuts and Discoveries in Seattle. Winemaker Marcus Miller produces amazingly good wines at pretty reasonable prices.
The 2007 Bombshell Red is an amazing blend of Merlot, Cab Sauv, Syrah, Malbec, Sangiovese, Cinsault and Counoise.*?
Alder Ridge, Six Prong, & Zefina - The Six Prong Red from Horse Heaven Hills another blend of multiple grape varieties at a reasonable price Cab Sauv, Zin, Syrah, Malbec, Merlot and Cab Franc went into this one. The 2004 Zefina Serience Red from Horse Heaven Hills is a blend of of Rhone varietals, including Grenache, Syrah, Counoise, Mourvedre, and Cinsault.
Badger Mountain & Powers Winery - The 2007 Badger Mtn Organic Riesling is a classic, balanced Riesling at a very reasonable price (about $12). The 2007 Powers Merlot is big, but not jammy at a reasonable price of about $16.
Balboa Winery & Beresan Winery - Tom Glase wanted to bring reasonably priced wines to WalaWalla and he did. The Merlot of the softest wine followed by the Syrah. The Cab Sauv has a little more structure, just as it should. They are all wonderfully user-friendly, with soft round velvety flavors at reasonable prices*
Barnard Griffin - Rob Griffin is a Washington State wine Pioneer. Despite production of 70,000 cases all of his wines are well made and reasonably priced.
Basel Cellars - These wines are usually excellent. The 2006 Claret is way better than some previous vintages and priced right at about $22.*
Bergevin Lane - These are all excellent wines in a softer more elegant and refined style than many Walla Walla wines. The Calico Red and Fruitbomb are outstanding values, especially the Fruitbomb with a nose that literally explodes out of the glass. An amazing value at about $11.*
Boudreaux Cellars - Winemaker Rob Newsom makes outstanding wines (another one who should be added to best winemakers). His Chardonnay was not available for tasting, but you should look for it. It really is like a great White Burgundy. The 2005 Cab Sauv is only 80% Cab Sauv, with the rest of the space reserved for the likes of Merlot, Syrah, etc.,The 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills is excellent, but a little pricey at over $100.*
Brian Carter Cellars - Brian Carter is another outstanding winemaker. He works magic with all of his wines. I am especially fond of his Abracadabra and L'Etalon.
Bunnell Family Cellar - Regrettably, I somehow missed this one and I have to confess that I know nothing about Bunnell. It is on my list for next time.
Buried Cane - Another one I missed. Planned to come back and somehow didn't get there.
Well, that's a dozen. Tune in for six more parts of this series.
Quiz: What do winemakers drink? Tune in next Monday for my answer. What do you think?
Fifty lucky winners attended the "First World Food And Wine Championship" at Dove Mountain Grill just at the entrance to the Ritz Carlton PGA championship site. World class Master Sommelier, Laura Williamson and three star quality Chef Bruce Yim, put on an amazing performance last night at their first Winemaker Dinner at the Grill with Bergevin Lane owner, Annette Bergevin, Many of the lucky guests were friends of Annette's father, Gary, founder of Canoe Ridge winery. Some were friends of friends - just a few degrees of separation. The lovely Lille, said, "This is the last enchilada I'll ever eat, because no other enchilada could ever live up to this braised duck enchilada" served with Magret of duck atop in an ancho chile chocolate sauce. Laura must have seen me coming to serve "Duck Two Ways" paired with the perfect red wine for southwest cuisine - 2006 Bergevin Lane Calico Red*, a blend of Merlot, Cab Sauv, Syrah, Zin and Cab Franc.
The evening started with NV Mountain Dome Sparkling* wine from the small Spokane Washington winery specializing in limited production bubbly. The wine is Brut in style, that is to say, dry. Not big and yeasty, it was the perfect apero, or aperitif. It is an amazing value priced at a very reasonable $17, less than half the price of a comparable French Champagne. This was followed by an amuse-bouche of Asian Pear Panzanella with warm brie and dried apricot vinaigrette paired with an amazingly crystalline 2007 Bergevin Lane Viognier drawn straight from the barrel.
The duck two ways was a hard act to follow, but, no problem, a totally deconstructed post-modern BLT did the trick. Trickster, Bruce Yim served thinly sliced roasted pork loin with rosti potatoes (hash browns?) Arizona Tomato Salad and bacon demi (the last BLT?) accompanied by 2005 Bergevin Lane Syrah* - the perfect match - each enhancing the other. Like so many of Annette's other wines, the Syrah has a soft gentle touch, a delightful contrast to some of the huge monsters out of Walla Walla.
No sweet wine and dessert in the desert for Annette! Instead, a cheese course paired with 2006 Bergevin Cabernet Sauvgnon. The cheese called Pave d'Auphinois on the menu looked, smelled and tasted like d'Affinois to me. Whatever it was, it was fit for a Dauphine when matched with the Cab. An evening fit for a King or a Dauphine!