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Jean Foillard Fleurie 2009

Date: Fri, Jul 5, 2013 Wine Tasting


Not quite what I had expected. Hard and brittle black wax capsule, there are shards all over my kitchen. . . It's darker and more serious in tone than anticipated. . . in comparison to the younger Morgon that I tasted last year, this is sombre and intense. . . smouldering rather than light and delicate.

Saw dust, earth, beet, geosmin. . . cranberry, pomegranate and spice. To open it's lush and round, but hours later there's more spine and resistance. Well paced and quite savoury, this seems entirely clean and currently unresolved. Wait.


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T. melanosporum

Date: Thu, Jul 4, 2013 Wine Tasting


Babies are delivered by stork and truffles it seems by dietician. . . this one freshly harvested from Pemberton. A subterranean white veined, black fleshed fungating mass. It is a very picky symbiote which has evolved to be strong scented and attractive to those who might help spread its spores.

Footnote. I'm losing my edge. . . but I was there in 2001. . . when they ate the first West Australian truffle. . .
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Clos Rougeard Samur Champigny 2007

Date: Wed, Jul 3, 2013 Wine Tasting


12.5%. Approx $A100. Consumed with mushroom risotto and roasted vegetables.

Day 1. Wonderful and imperfect. Blackcurrant with a leafy, slightly vegetal edge. Leather saddle, bacon and rosewood. It's savoury, dry and slightly adhesive. Round but brisk to open, modest in weight, it seems held but unhurried. The finish reminds me of graphite, it tastes smudged and not unlike a Faber-Castell pencil. Yes.

Day 2. Closer to perfection. It seems cleaner whilst still retaining an edge. There's more sap and pips than I had appreciated last night and again it's dry and firm to finish. It seems more defined and less smudged. Yes Yes.

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Lebanese Patisserie Malaga

Date: Tue, Jul 2, 2013 Wine Tasting

For over a decade I've beeneating Baklava madein Malaga. It's a curious combination. Something sweet and indulgent made in a light industrial wasteland. From what I can gather, this one outlet continues to supply most of Perth with freshly made Lebanese sweets. There are apparently over 200 stockists. . .Today I decided to visit the source and found myself poking around back streets, which I suspect are better known for trucks andwaste management. You can find the factory outlet on Camboon Road, next to a Transfield depot.

After wandering around for a few minutes, inhaling the spice and sweetness I bought a kilo of freshly made Baklava for the modest price of $15. They've tweaked the formula, using larger fragments of nuts and now cashews.

Lebanese Patisserie on Urbanspoon

Related.

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Julien Labet 'Les Varrons' 2011

Date: Mon, Jul 1, 2013 Wine Tasting


Another beautiful label from Julien Labet and the Jura. Pinot noir and supposedly only 11.5% alcohol.

Day 1. It's light and brisk, though it feels a point heavier. Spiced and sappy to begin, stewed stems, red berries and perhaps a suggestion and precursor of leather and game. Bright and pert, simple and direct. It has texture, but no weight. . . a velvet glove with no fist.

Day 2. Fading, like a child's watercolour.

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Julien Labet 'La Reine' 2010

Date: Thu, Jun 27, 2013 Wine Tasting


Beautifully packaged, thoughI had hoped for more from the liquid. . .

Jura. Chardonnay. There are very few bottles from the Jura to be found where I live and so all I had was preconception and expectation.

It's big and to begin the nose is muted, so much so, I had wrongly wondered whether this might be tainted. Nuts, grilled apricot and quince. Flesh and weight, pace, sting and length. I've had many chardonnay with some of these adjectives, but few where they all appear so prominently together.


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La Pagnotta Bakery and Cafe

Date: Thu, Jun 27, 2013 Wine Tasting


At the corner of Alexander Drive and Victoria Road in Malaga, surrounded by barbed wire and the roar of passing cement and dump trucks you will find La Pagnotta. It's worth a short detour, the range of pizzas is broad and the bases crisp and crunchy. The pictured pepperoni with feta and mushrooms is recommended, though perhaps the tomato sauce is a little too paste like. . .

La Pagnotta Bakery & Cafe Malaga on Urbanspoon

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Sardines on toast

Date: Tue, Jun 25, 2013 Wine Tasting

beetroot hummus

One plate, five steps.


Herb salad. A fresh handful of parsley leaves, pulled from their stems, a smaller collection of coriander leaves and a few nasturtium petals. 3-4 very finely diced spring onions; a few tablespoons of capers, rinsed; and a tablespoon of soft pickled green peppercorns. Toss and at the last moment dress with a rocket and lemon puree.

Rocket puree. 40-50g of Arugula, juice of one lemon, 80mls of EVOO. Blitz in food processor / thermomix.

Beetroot hummus. Roast 2 medium beets for about 80 minutes at 150 degrees. Peel and set aside to cool. To a thermomix or similar add 1 tablespoon of cumin seeds, a large slice of bread minus the crust, 1-2 cloves of garlic, the beetroot (about 200g), 1 tablespoon of tahini and the juice of 1 lemon. Process till the desired consistency. In my case speed 6 for 10-15 seconds.

Toast. Slice bread, rub of garlic, drizzle with oil and place under a hot grill for 1-2 minutes.

Sardines. Pan fry sardine fillets, a few minutes on each side.

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A pair of Pink ladies

Date: Mon, Jun 24, 2013 Wine Tasting


Blurred and in the background, the larger and supermarket bought apple. Eight seeds, sour edged and slightly rubbery and chewy. Presumably it's been picked early and kept cool and long, hence the tartness of youth and the texture of something older.

Smaller and to the fore, a farmer's market apple with seeds six. The differences are subtle as they are numerous. It smells fresh and slightly green and the flavour has more complexity and roundness. The acidity is less jarring and is offset with more sweetness and length. It's also crisp and generally more texturally appealing.

Image: Each apple has five pockets for seeds, but a variable number of seeds.


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Vinteloper Odeon Lenswood Pinot noir

Date: Sat, Jun 22, 2013 Wine Tasting


Slightly odd, though satisfying. I'm convinced it's not worth the three figure price tag that I paid. . .

Quite pale, this is the first wine I can recall smelling and tasting of lentils. . . It's there on the nose and in the mouth. Some might call it herbs and stems, but it smells of puy lentils, half cooked. . . It's something I've never found in a glass of wine. . . The structure and weight seems correct, though the scent is more distracting than beautiful.


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A teacup

Date: Wed, Jun 19, 2013 Wine Tasting



ceramic, shape unchanged for centuries. Its contents hot and in this case dilute. It’s not the scent that triggers memory and meaning but the thin veil of steam.

I can picture grandparents, parents, aunts and a sister performing a culturally accepted but dated form of tea ceremony. An obsessive compulsive one which I could never completely understand as a child born in the West. As with most of my childhood memories it involves food and eating out. . . the tea would arrive, steaming and overflowing and instead of pouring for drinking, it would be used to clean chopsticks and spoons which had hitherto been sitting at the table, upright in tins. Sticks and spoons immersed in tea, now ‘safe’ for use. The cups and bowls acting as wash basins could now be rinsed clean with more tea. . . Cleaning done, the pot would be refilled and only now would we drink and eat. . . .

Forty years on, I find myself sitting in room full of strangers, with a cup of tea; the steam is rising and I have a sudden urge to clean my eating utensils. . .

Image: I'm nursing a moist nose and sore throat. Normal transmission will resume shortly.

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Cullen Diana Madeline 2010

Date: Mon, Jun 17, 2013 Wine Tasting


Prematurely awoken, this is clearly not ready and not nearly as satisfying as it might be in the years to come. Still I had the opportunity and my preferred provider of small goods (The Re Store, Leederville) still insists on selling this by the front door for $A89.

A blend of five grapes; thirteen percent and sealed with stelvin. The fruit is mostly hidden by oak, spiced and creamy, warm and comforting. Blackcurrant, dried herbs and an opening whisper of violet. Expected. Flowing, but zippy in the mouth, it's cola like with its spice and pace. Presumably this exuberance will settle with age. It still feels refined and delicate even though the tannins have an edge and granularity. The pieces are still fresh and moving, unrehearsed but clearly full of potential.



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Postcard: Bacon and egg rolls

Date: Fri, Jun 14, 2013 Wine Tasting


Five dollars each from the Kyilla P&C stall. Once constructed you can pluck and add your own fresh herbs (parsley or oregano).

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Mount Mary Chardonnay 2010

Date: Fri, Jun 14, 2013 Wine Tasting


Diam sealed. 13.4%. Approx $A100.

My initial impulse was to say Burgundian /Excellent but overpriced /Stone like. . . but that would be too easy and lazy. It's worked and complicated, but at the same time surprisingly restrained. It's more texture than fruit. Apparently there was no malo, but extended lees contact. . . I can still smell butterscotch, matches and peanut skins; there's a prickle on the nose, a homeopathic shake of white pepper. Honey dew and persimmon - a suggestion of sweetness but taste submits to feel. I've scribbled restrained, but perhaps smouldering would be better word. The wine has power and flesh; form without (excessive) colour. . .


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