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Bunuel-thought of the day

Date: Tue, Aug 24, 2010

They call Bunuel everything: traitor, anarchist, pervert, defamer, iconoclast. But lunatic they do not call him. It is true, it is lunacy he portrays, but it is not his lunacy...this is the lunacy of civilization, the record of man's achievement after ten thousand years of refinement. -- Henry Miller...

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Valvigneres Returns

Date: Sun, Aug 22, 2010

And it distressed me to miss this tasting in August. Pigs on spits and all. 1 Fte du Vin Naturel en Ardche ValvignresUploaded by okasion. - Discover more animation and arts videos....

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This Weekend's Wine Obsessions

Date: Sun, Aug 22, 2010

$20 and.. $18 and... $27 (I think I might prefer the acidiy on the '08, but this is so pretty, chamomile, fennel, yellow flowers, and a chenin-like wet wool)...

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This Week's Press Release

Date: Sun, Aug 22, 2010

The birth of a rare red burgundy variety! ++ SINGAPORE AIRLINES TO SERVE RARE RED BURGUNDY VARIETY IN SUITES AND FIRST CLASS Singapore Airlines now features six of the most acclaimed 'Grand Cru' Red Burgundy labels in its wine selection available to Suites and First Class customers. With the August 1, 2010 introduction, customers on each flight can now look forward to a 'Grand Cru' Red Burgundy label in addition to the current wine selection. Red Burgundy is a red wine label originating from the French region of Bourgogne and made predominantly with the popular Pinot Noir grape variety. Possessing a reputation for being challenging to cultivate, these Pinot Noir grapes are grown around the world, but those from the region of Bourgogne produce some of the finest wines in the world. The six labels offered by the Airline are classified as 'Grand Cru', a classification that designates a vineyard known for its excellent reputation in producing wine. Said Singapore Airlines' Senior Vice-President Product and Services, Mr. Yap Kim Wah, 'We are very pleased to enhance our current wine selection on board, which also includes the popular and renowned Red Bordeaux labels, with the prestigious Grand Cru Red Burgundy labels....

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Belated Valentini

Date: Sun, Aug 22, 2010

Three days before my European trip I took the subway up to iTrulli where Nicola Marzovilla had prepared a tasting of the legendary Valentini wines. This was a mini-media tour of the wines, a rare chance to taste a vertical. The house in Abruzzo is famously secretive, and it ain't cheap. They rarely allow any one in the cellars and they won't talk technique. But they have a reputation of being one of those old-fashioned sorts and swear that they never vary in the way they make wine. But, who knows. A few weeks back I had a 2000 Trebbiano which had the lees stirred into a souffle--Meursault-like, and I was like, hey guys, what gives? Trebbiano '08 Trebbiano- A lovely purity with ginger and white pepper. Limpid. Nutty. More ginger! And a long, long finish. '05, Lively a bit of a CO2 spritz. Nutty, peach pit fuzz and lacks the '08 focus 1998- Yes! Long and lingering finish, in fact it doesnt finish. Two months later, I can still taste it, and it's great! It even has a food friendly bitterness. 1990- Who squeezed marzipan into the wine? It is stinging and oxidized, a little sherry-jura thing going on...

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Grape Radio Interview

Date: Wed, Aug 18, 2010

Last week I was the guest on Grape Radio and thought I should let you know. It was great fun talking to the gents over there, and I thank them for having me on. If you head over there to listen, you might be interested in the assortment of comments. Sound quality was not the greatest, but it's a long way from NYC to their studios in California . Grape Radio...

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This Weekend's Wine Obsessions

Date: Wed, Aug 18, 2010

$20 and.. $18 and... $27 (I think I might prefer the acidiy on the '08, but this is so pretty, chamomile, fennel, yellow flowers, and a chenin-like wet wool)...

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This Week's Press Release

Date: Wed, Aug 18, 2010

The birth of a rare red burgundy variety! ++ SINGAPORE AIRLINES TO SERVE RARE RED BURGUNDY VARIETY IN SUITES AND FIRST CLASS Singapore Airlines now features six of the most acclaimed 'Grand Cru' Red Burgundy labels in its wine selection available to Suites and First Class customers. With the August 1, 2010 introduction, customers on each flight can now look forward to a 'Grand Cru' Red Burgundy label in addition to the current wine selection. Red Burgundy is a red wine label originating from the French region of Bourgogne and made predominantly with the popular Pinot Noir grape variety. Possessing a reputation for being challenging to cultivate, these Pinot Noir grapes are grown around the world, but those from the region of Bourgogne produce some of the finest wines in the world. The six labels offered by the Airline are classified as 'Grand Cru', a classification that designates a vineyard known for its excellent reputation in producing wine. Said Singapore Airlines' Senior Vice-President Product and Services, Mr. Yap Kim Wah, 'We are very pleased to enhance our current wine selection on board, which also includes the popular and renowned Red Bordeaux labels, with the prestigious Grand Cru Red Burgundy labels....

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Belated Valentini

Date: Wed, Aug 18, 2010

Three days before my European trip I took the subway up to iTrulli where Nicola Marzovilla had prepared a tasting of the legendary Valentini wines. This was a mini-media tour of the wines, a rare chance to taste a vertical. The house in Abruzzo is famously secretive, and it ain't cheap. They rarely allow any one in the cellars and they won't talk technique. But they have a reputation of being one of those old-fashioned sorts and swear that they never vary in the way they make wine. But, who knows. A few weeks back I had a 2000 Trebbiano which had the lees stirred into a souffle--Meursault-like, and I was like, hey guys, what gives? Trebbiano '08 Trebbiano- A lovely purity with ginger and white pepper. Limpid. Nutty. More ginger! And a long, long finish. '05, Lively a bit of a CO2 spritz. Nutty, peach pit fuzz and lacks the '08 focus 1998- Yes! Long and lingering finish, in fact it doesnt finish. Two months later, I can still taste it, and it's great! It even has a food friendly bitterness. 1990- Who squeezed marzipan into the wine? It is stinging and oxidized, a little sherry-jura thing going on...

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Pierre Overnoy and the 18- year -old Ouille

Date: Wed, Aug 18, 2010

The day started with a train ride from Paris and then to Pupillon and Chez Overnoy, directly outside to his garden, to where he has his own little nursery with baby ploussard, savignin and chardonnay. While late June, the yard had this tender spring green about it. The hour was 11 o'clock. Out came the glasses. A mystery wine was poured. We stood in the breeze, just where Pierre likes to taste, per instructions of his old mentor M. Jules Chauvet. No one had any intention of spitting. "Guess how old it is?" he asked. Jean Paul Rocher & Pierre Overnoy This was a tough one. I usually fail miserably at the games, though I love them. Keeps you sharp. Forces you to think. It was savignin. Got that. It's salty. It's got age. But how much age? It's saline heaven and full of freshness with the sweet sucked out of the caramel. It's long. It whistles. And then more salt. Pass the Maldon. I say 1999. Why? I have no idea why. I have no context for guessing the age of an oxidized wine with its sherried taste. I just don't have enough practice. Pierre gives us a hint...

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Drink Some Fucking Natural Wines From Lyle Fass

Date: Tue, Aug 10, 2010

Lyle Fass over at RocksandFruit put this pretty funny video together. Picked my day right up....

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The Overnoy Fete

Date: Mon, Aug 9, 2010

I don't care if the only reason Pierre Overnoy threw me a party because out of friendship for Jean Paul Rocher, my publisher. In fact, I'd rather that was the case. I'm not a Leo, I'm a Cancer, and this kind of center of attention thing raises mixed feelings, but, I am not stupid enough not to have been thrilled. ++ foto par Philippe Gasnier Our little entourage drove or waked up to Pierre's families farmhouse just up the road. There were chickens, dogs and a garden waiting to give potatoes and tomatoes. I had no idea there was a pot luck dinner involved. There were radishes and butter and Pierre's bread. There were lentils and fabulous Comte. There was no one there at first, and then Olif from the blog de, showed up. So did an enologue from the area who swore by enzymes and told me that I did to. Why I asked. "Coche Dury!" He said, positive that I liked those wines. "But," I answered, "I am not of the faithful." Ah well, he didn't like me too much. There were about 40 people. I signed books. People in France buy books. People in Spain buy...

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Pierre Overnoy and the 18- year -old Ouile: Part One

Date: Thu, Aug 5, 2010

The day started with a train ride from Paris and then to Pupillon and Chez Overnoy, directly outside to his garden, to where he has his own little nursery with baby trousseau and ploussard While late June, the yard had this tender spring green about it. The hours was 11 o'clock and out came the glasses. A mystery wine was poured, in the outside, just where Pierre likes to taste, per instructions of M. Chauvet. No one had any intention of spitting. "Guess how old it is?" he asked. Jean Paul Rocher & Pierre Overnoy This was a tough one. I usually fail miserably at the games, though I love them. Keeps you sharp. Forces you to think. It was savignin. Got that. It's salty. It's got age. But how much age? It's saline heaven and full of freshness with the sweet sucked out of the caramel. It's long. It whistles. And then more salt. Pass the Maldon. I say 99. Why I have no idea why. I have no context for guessing the age of an oxidized wine. The wine was Ouile, means instead of letting the layer of yeast, flor take effect, the wine gets topped off regularly....

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The Abuse of Natural

Date: Wed, Aug 4, 2010

A few months ago, noodling around, I came across something called Mod Gamay, made in Australia from the Chris Ringland operation. This wine, with it's bold copy and flashy visuals, seems to have been removed from the net, gave homage to 'the father of Natural Wines, Jules Chauvet.' When an obscure scientist/vigneron becomes a buzzword for marketing, you know there is a body of work in trouble. I did a little investigation and found out that while the MOD grapes are conventionally farmed from not so old fruit, and while it is naturally yeasted it is indeed acidified and I just had the feeling that Saint Jules would be rolling in his grave if he knew his names was thus invoked. The new wines, vins libre, au naturel or live or real or naked, are in the mainstream, and that means buyer beware. The rule? If there's 'natural' on the label, a knee jerk reaction is forming--to avoid. But even then, one has to be smart about what to avoid, for example, if it's the NPA, that is one to drink. You just have to learn to suss out the true ones, read between the lines. That sort of thing....

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